(Offered in odd numbered years only) Linear wave theory, short- and long-term wave height statistics, wave spectra, refraction, reflection & diffraction of water waves, wave set up & runup, coastal sediment transport mechanisms, beach morphology & morphodynamics, beach erosion problems & their mitigation, rip currents, longshore currents, surf beat; tides & estuarine mixing. -- Course Website
Instructor: Assoc. Prof. Peter Nielsen ([email protected])
